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Do a few searches on coring, riverman has a resto and he did it how john who makes, and restores hydrostreams in canada does it to the T. Berkeley Puppet Interview Manual Transmission. Oldskier got his done using a bedding paste that mertons.com sells. I am using west systems epoxy with 404 filler. I would be willing to bet that each one of these 3 ways will more than do the trick and outlast the original construction by years. You just have to do the search, read alot, there is a ton of info here, so you may change your mind about 10 time like i did on what material to use.

But its all up to you. Good luck RJ. Also can you mix a vinyl ester with poly ester. This is after they have already cured. Gosh I hope so! I just did an entire boat with vinylester on top of the original polyester.

I talked to John Speath at Hydrostream Canada and he said he didn't recommend using polyester bonding putty to bond the balsa with the vinylester resin that I used inside the outer hull, but I had already done it.(D'OH). So I did a decidedly unscientific test with my waste resin.

I had flopped some polyester putty on top of the waste vinylester resin, ( the putty was what I bedded the balsa with, it's just pre-thickened poly resin) so I tried to break them apart with a hammer. The poylester putty broke, the vinylester resin broke, and the poly and vinyl broke together, but the polyester NEVER separated from the vinylester at the bonding point. Mangal Font English To Hindi Free Download. It was good enough for me. On the other hand, what Jeff (Riverman) did was use ATC Corebond, after tons of research.

It's the most secure method in my opinion, but costly and tedious. The Corebond has to be mixed to harden virtually at the same time as the wet resin it is bonding to. Takes experimentation AND precise timing.

I imagine after a nuclear attack, his boat may be the only thing left. The Corebond has to be mixed to harden virtually at the same time as the wet resin it is bonding to.Not quite Bernie, the resin the core is bonded to is cured, the Core-bond is applied to the hull and the priming resin is applied to the back side of the core. The 'thick and thin' combination of the resin and the Core-bond allows a very intimate bond into all of the cells and kerfs in the core. Where the timing and experimentation is involved is to get the priming resin and Core-bond to kick off at the same time. This just requires a few tests at the temperatures you will be working in. The Core-bond kicks later than the resin, and this time differential is applied as the time between catylizing the Core-bond and the priming resin. Not as difficult as it sounds, you just have to figure out what that time gap should be and draw yourself up a schedule.

Ci V Icom Software Free. I did it as well as vacuum bagging, and I am an beginner.:). It is likely that if you don't intend on making a super light layup and beating the hull really hard.it is not as important what you use as you think, or as how well you do the job. From what I have read epoxy has the best bond to old substrate, but I would assume the above specialized methods work well also. People did this many years ago with normal common materials and when done properly had no problems.you also have a lot of bonding area for core unlike a localized repair. Not ever a bad idea to ask what works better though and find out what best fits your needs and budget, or if you can get particular products easier/cheaper at your location you might use those if recommended.

I did a transom with wests epoxy and was impressed, so if I did one that is what I'd use but might change brands to other cheaper ones recommended here. I had some get on the gel that was not even washed (not touched), and it stuck so hard it tore the gel right out of the skin when I hit it with a hammer sideways. Had to fix that too. The stuff will even repair plastic and other things.

Just grind your inside hull surface level, thoroughly vacuum & wipe down with acetone. Pre-fit your Balsa. Using a v-toothed trowel, spread down your ATC CoreBond & lay your Balsa on top with some weights that are evenly distributed.

When its dry, fill in any voids. When thats dry, sand/scrape off any excess CoreBond. Your done & ready for your top layer(s) of glass.

DivinyCell Devilette blue bedding compound is also a good one. Personally, I prefer to vacuum-bag my core down. But the previous is the conventional method & works just fine. Hope this helps. Airride, you NEED to reactivate the base material. This is done by adding a layer of glass, 3/4 or 1.5 oz mat. You CAN use poly, but you are best to use a Vinylester.